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Every nation has its own traditional dress. While the Japanese wear the Kimono, the Koreans the Hanbok and the Chinese the Cheongsam, the Vietnamese are proud of their "Ao dai". For a long time, this traditional Vietnamese dress has been an integral part of the culture of the Land of the Dragon and embodies the history and femininity of its people. Its simple but flattering silhouette allows a woman to feel beautiful and elegant while maintaining a traditional style. It is a dress of the heart that Vietnamese women love to wear on every occasion that presents itself. Over time, this iconic tunic of Vietnam proves that it charms both its inhabitants and travelers. A garment appreciated by people of all ages and backgrounds, women but also men. Without a doubt, one of the most beautiful souvenirs that visitors wish to bring back from Vietnam.
So what exactly is an “ao dai”?
In Vietnamese, "Áo" means "shirt" and "Dài" means "long", so "ao dai" translates to "long shirt" or "long tunic". This term is pronounced "ao yai" in the south of Vietnam, and "ao zai" in the north. The “Ao dai” is a two-piece outfit: a long, fitted tunic worn over pants. High-waisted, wide pants, held in place by an elastic waistband sewn at the top or by a zipper. The tight-fitting tunic at the bust, reaching mid-leg, slit on both sides up to above the hips. It is distinguished by a Mao collar and long sleeves. The closure is discreetly done on the side with small snap buttons. This traditional Vietnamese outfit is generally made of silk but can also be made of different fabric materials. It is the favorite garment of women of all ages. It is also the uniform of schoolchildren, students, hotel and restaurant receptionists, and even flight attendants. They often wear it with heels. Men also wear the Ao dai, but it is much less common than for women. Nowadays, men prefer to reserve this traditional Vietnamese outfit for very important occasions such as weddings, official ceremonies, conferences, etc.
Evolution of the “Ao dai”, traditional Vietnamese clothing
“Ao Giao Linh” – popular Vietnamese costume in the 18th century
With its thousand-year history, the Ao dai has gone through many transformations over the centuries, due to cultural, historical and aesthetic factors, before reaching its current form and becoming a symbol of Vietnam’s cultural identity.
“Ao Giao Linh” – popular Vietnamese costume in the 18th century
In 1774, the civil war in Vietnam divided the country into two: the North was under the authority of the Trinh dynasty and the South, ruled by the Nguyen family.
People in the north of the country wore the “Ao giao linh” at that time, a garment inspired by the Chinese dress worn by the Han people. It was a dress slit on both sides, with a crossed collar and long sleeves. Characterized by its four long panels, this Vietnamese outfit was worn with a long black dress.
“Ao ngu than” – first version of the traditional ao dai
In the south, with the ambition of becoming the ruler of an independent country, Lord Nguyen Phuc Khoat ordered his people to change their way of dressing in order to assert their identity vis-à-vis the north.
According to the lord’s instructions, all his courtiers, men and women, had to wear trousers under a long, wide, five-panel tunic with a straight collar. This Vietnamese garment, called “Ao ngu than”, is said to be a mix between Chinese attire and that of the ancient Champa kingdom.
The decision of Lord Nguyen Phuc Khoat in 1774 marked the birth of the first version of the current traditional Vietnamese dress, the “ao dai”.
After the reunification of Vietnamese territory by Nguyen Phuc Anh in 1802, which marked the beginning of the Nguyen Dynasty, the “Ao ngu than” became the national clothing of this dynasty.
But how does “Ao ngu than” differ from today’s “Áo dài”?
This design consisted of two panels at the back, two at the front, and a “baby flap” hidden under the front panels. It was also the first dress to feature slits on both sides from the hips, which remains one of the most distinctive features of the modern Vietnamese ao dai.
Unlike later designs, the ‘Ao ngu than’ had a much looser cut and was also much shorter than what we know now.
Ao dai Le Pho – A compromise between tradition and modernity
In 1943, an artist named LE Pho made some modifications to the “Ao dai Lemur”. He removed all Western influences from the outfit to give it a shape more similar to the traditional “Ao tu than” (the four-part Vietnamese dress worn by women during the feudal period), while still emphasizing the female figure as Lemur had done.
This new version became popular at the time because it fit well with traditional ideology. The pattern of the “Ao dai Le Pho” is thus closer to the modern style of today’s Vietnamese tunic.
Raglan Sleeve Ao Dai – My Favorite Model to Date
In the 1950s, two Saigon tailors, Tran Kim of Thiet Lap Tailors and Dung of Dung Tailors, designed the “Áo dài” with raglan sleeves (diagonally cut sleeves that extend up to the neck).
The Vietnamese tunic became more fitted at the waist and sleeves, thus further highlighting the curves of the female body.
Ao Dai Mrs Nhu (Ao dai Tran Le Xuan) – the liberalization of Saigon women
In the late 1950s, Mrs. Tran Le Xuan (or Madame Nhu), the sister-in-law of Ngo Dinh Diem, former President of the Republic of South Vietnam, made a fashion statement by wearing the “Ao dai” with a very modern V-neck, short sleeves and gloves for a more elegant look.
This style of “Áo Dài” was not unanimously accepted by the population because it contravened the traditions of the society at the time. Many people considered this development to be in bad taste.
This was also the time when the Vietnamese “Ao dai” from the South were in “conflict” with those from the northern regions of the country. In fact, the rejection of the modern version was so pronounced that the government banned the dress, seeing it as a symbol of colonialism and imperialism.
Despite these criticisms of “decadence” in female dress, this type of low-cut Ao dai was considered a symbol of “self-confidence” and “liberation” for Saigonese women, thus opening new avenues of evolution for the Vietnamese Ao dai.
Today's Modern Ao Dai – National Costume
Since the late 1980s, the modern Ao dai we know today has almost reached its final version after many transformations. It is a symbol of grace, beauty and cultural pride.
Today, this long tunic has become one of the popular uniforms of Vietnamese high school and college girls, although it is not worn frequently. Flight attendants of Vietnam Airlines also wear this traditional Vietnamese outfit as a national emblem.
It thus became the national costume, a symbol of femininity and pride for the people.
For contemporary artists, such as fashion designers, the “Ao dai” is an endless source of inspiration! They have designed many new styles of the “Ao dai” and brought diversification to this garment. The most recent innovations include relief cuts and a new range of materials, patterns and colors.
All in all, the Vietnamese Ao dai is a dress that every woman can customize to suit her taste and figure. From haute couture to traditionalist and everything in between, there are good reasons why this dress remains such a treasured part of Vietnamese culture.
The traditional colors of Ao Dai
There are very different variants for every age group. Not only young girls, but also mature or even older women have their own models with very specific colors.
Young girls, college students and high school girls often prefer white “Ao dai”, a color symbolic of purity. Married women opt for bright colors. Mature women often choose dark colors and thicker fabrics.
In the administration, it is multi-colored and decorated with patterns. For weddings, the colors are bright and the tunic is dotted with embroidery. On special occasions, Vietnamese women dress their best by wearing stylized Áo Dài or made with high-quality fabrics.
The Ao dai – Symbol of Vietnam
On the international scene, the image of the “Ao dai” even goes beyond the country’s borders. It accompanies Vietnamese people abroad and represents a symbol of Vietnam.
In 1995, this Vietnamese tunic was honored to receive the award for “best traditional costume” at an international beauty contest.
Vietnamese Ao dai is no longer just a symbol of feminine beauty. It is also a cultural, historical and traditional ambassador. It is the “national soul” of Vietnamese women.
Ao dai for men
In Vietnam, the Ao dai was traditionally worn by both men and women. Over time, this traditional Vietnamese outfit has lost its popularity among men. Therefore, when we talk about the Ao Dai, we often think of the one intended for women.
The first version of the Vietnamese tunic for men is the Ao Ngu Than. This style of men’s clothing differs slightly from that of women. The tunic is usually darker in color, with two shorter tails to facilitate movement. The pants should preferably be white.
Of course, the Ao dai for men is not as fitted as the one for women. During the feudal era, this traditional Vietnamese male attire changed little.
Nowadays, fashion designers have come up with new versions of the Ao Dai for men by incorporating several innovations: a more varied and vibrant range of colors, as well as embroidery patterns. These modern versions of the Ao Dai allow them to follow trends while maintaining traditional values. They are particularly popular among young people because of their convenience, dynamism, youthfulness and masculinity.
So, in recent years, more and more men wear this traditional Vietnamese outfit for ceremonies or special occasions such as weddings, Tet holiday and official ceremonies.
